Le monde de Tokyobanhbao: Blog Mode gourmand

Day 15 : Ise & Futami

Fri 30 May, 2014 · Food, Illustration, Travel

After dropping our luggage in the charming ryokan, it’s time to discover our surroundings. Thanks to our precious JR Pass, we took the train to Futami (about 20 mins journey from Isa-shi) to admire the famous ‘Wedded Rocks’ of Meoto Iwa.

MEOTO IWA at FUTAMI

The town is very tranquil (probably because it wasn’t high season) and it was a thrill to see the sea after spending a few days in the chaos of the city.

The two rocks represent the marital union of the two divine founders of Japan: the husband (Izanagi) and his wife (Izanami). These two rocks are bound by a sacred rope braided with rice straw (=shimenawa).

It seems that the rope is replaced 3 times a year (you can never be too careful with matrimony these days!) during celebrations in May, September and December.

FUTAMI OKITAMA JINJA

Close to the sacred rocks lays a Shintoist sanctuary called the Futami Okitama Jinja: it’s the holy pilgrimage destination for old and young married couples alike who want their love to be “forever”.

I have to say that I did buy I little trinket in this historical sanctuary (and from now on I will be waiting for my 3 rings a year, if I want to believe in the legend of the “Wedded Rocks”).

There are little ‘souvenir’ frogs scattered around everywhere which are meant to bring riches. Love and money in one foul swoop, we are spoilt, very spoilt!

ISE JINGU

Back to Ise to visit the Ise Jingu sanctuary, that every Japanese is meant to visit at least once in a lifetime.

It is part of two different sanctuaries: Ise Geku (outside sanctuary, 5 mins walk from the train station) and Ise Naiku (indoor sanctuary, situated 20 mins bus ride from the train station). Taking pictures is not allowed everywhere so I did what I could.

The sanctuary is destroyed and rebuilt every 20 years (last rebuilt was in 2013), honoring the Shintoist idea of birth and death of nature. Making us realise that nothing is eternal (not even the love we were promised in the Futomi sanctuary? Arggh! Are we being lied to?!!).

Sanctuaire KAWABE NANAKUSA

Situated close by the Ryokan Hoshidekan, very small but bags of charm.

Now let’s talk about the gourmet addresses that I was happy to test out in Ise:

TORAMARU

(Kawasaki 2-13-6 , Ise) A kind of Japanese tapas bar (Izakawa) who serve delicious sashimis, sushis and other delights.

Here nobody speaks English. We did our best to order by making lots of funny gestures and some drawings (they seemed to enjoy it because I even received a special scribbled portrait from one of the cooks).

We started with sashimis, some kolokke (potatoe buns) followed by grilled fish.

Then we finished off with fried oysters: a delight! The service was impeccable, the place warm and fun, I loved it!

FUTABAZUSHI

( Iwabushi 1-1-26, Ise) Some delicious sushis with the famous ‘toro’ (fatty tuna) that melts in your mouth!

Again amazing service which even went to the sushi-chef following us on his pink bike to make sure we followed the right direction to the train station! (more than professional conscience, pure human grace!)

EVERYDAY MILKY

I don’t know what the exact name of this shop is but this is what I made of it.

If you go past this lovey place (a stone throw away from the Ise Geku on the way to the train station), you will savor a very ‘creamy’ happy moment.

SHIRASE

(Address on the map here) A patisserie ‘à la française’ in Japan.

The Mont-Blanc and the patisseries made with ‘matcha’ are divine which is enough to forgive their little spelling mistakes (“Moelleux aux amandeR” (sponge almondR cakes) ?? Hello Paris can’t hear you there !??). (English translation by Isa)

Previously on MY JAPAN TRAVEL DIARY :
Notre appart à Tokyo
Day 1 : Sumida Park & Asakusa
Day 2 : Namco Namjatown
Day 3 : Omotesando & Harajuku
Day 4 : Ueno Park
Day 5 : Errances gourmandes à Omotesando
Day 6 : Odaiba お台場
Day 7 : Tsukiji market, Meiji & Yoyogi
Day 8 : Tokyo Skytree
Day 9 : Dans le train pour Osaka !
Day 10 : Osaka Castle & Hanami au Mint
Day 11 : Osaka DenDen Town
Day 12 : Nagoya
Day 13 : Takayama Spring Festival
Day 14 : Notre ryokan “Hoshidekan” à Ise

Day 14 : Our ryokan in Ise

Wed 28 May, 2014 · Fashion, Illustration, Travel

And we’re back on the train on our way to Ise, in the province of Mie. Tokyo or Osaka‘s modernity and turmoil seem so far away! All the more so with our lodging choice for this stop: a traditional inn (=ryokan) called Hoshidekan.

I had never tried this type of housing during my previous stay, and I was curious to discover this typically japanese dolce vita.

As soon as we arrive, we’re greeted by a young host who speaks some english – which will prove very useful to understand the house rules in this traditional home. After taking our shoes off in the hallway, we visit our new abode.

He shows us the small central garden, very proud of his “suikinkutsu 水琴窟”, an ingenious system where you pour water in a bamboo tube so you can enjoy the sweet song of the trickling water.

We will be sleeping on a futon that will be unfolded in the evening on our room’s tatami, with a garden view.

As for the bathroom, we will have to share it with the other people living in the ryokan, but let me reassure you right off, we don’t take our bath all at the same time (although, if you’re in a philanthropic mood…) : the door can be locked, you just need to decide on who gets to go first.

Inside, it’s like an episode of Ranma 1/2: you sit on small stools to wash yourself with water and soap (and the help of a small wooden bucket or the traditional showerhead for those who have habits).

Once clean, you can take a dip in a 42°C bath, and totally relax. Divine!

To honor the location, I wore the yukata (summer kimono) that I bought in Tokyo, Asakusa with “Kotome-san”, my japanese aunt.

I took advantage of her being there to ask her all possible questions and make sure I was doing everything right if I wore it (“can you wear socks(=tabi) with a yukata? Which sandals (=getta) should I choose? You’re supposed to fold left over right, right?” etc. etc.)

The yukata is traditionally worn during summer festivals or in the onsen (hot springs). In the shop, I could choose between a traditional obi (belt) or one with a ready-made knot.

Yukata, obi, gettas et tabis bought at Asakusa, Tokyo
Lipstick Absolu Velours « Velours de Pourpre » Lancôme
Nailpolish “I think in Pink” O.P.I

I didn’t want to take the easy road, so I asked the saleswoman to explain exactly how to make a knot in the back, so that I could do it on my own later on, and do it right! I spent at least an hour in the shop, taking pictures of all the steps with my Iphone (although…tutorials can be found on Youtube) and victory! We managed to reproduce the knot here in Ise!

Here I am with the outfit of the day, a tad “cliché” perhaps, but it really was all too tempting, in such a location: I hope you’ll enjoy it, before we resume our visits! (English translation by Bleu Marine)

Ryokan HOSHIDEKAN
2-15-2, Kawasaki
ISE, Mie

Arthur Ashe

Mon 26 May, 2014 · Fashion

Contrary to the « pool flip flops » trend, I am much more into the « sneakers worn with city clothes » trend. As you already noticed with my New Balances or other Converses.

Another target that I have been having my eye on for a long time: the very (too much?) popular Stan Smiths. We see them everywhere and however, we don’t get tired of them.

But here’s the catch: My size is out of stock (38 2/3 to be precise) given the frenzy that followed when they were reissued. I even looked for them in Japan, but same statement in the Land of the Rising Sun. Back in France, I came to accept this until I saw a pair of Arthur Ashe on Instagram: White sneakers, same shape, same spirit.

As a result: here they are on my feet with this« sporty-preppy » outift : a plan B which is far from disappointing. Comfort, design, I love it all. And, I think Arthur Ashe was a better tennis player than Stan Smith… victory by Ace! Game Set and Match, Arthur Ashe! (English translation by Daphné)

My Outfit

Trench “Maud” Pablo Gérard Darel
Bag “Melpomene” Clio Goldbrenner
Leather pants La Redoute (déjà vu ici)
Top “Candice” Pablo Gérard Darel
Watch Casio
Lipstick L’absolu Velours « Velours de Grenade » Lancôme
Sneakers “Arthur Ashe” Le Coq sportif